Milan Fashion Week: best presentations
The main sticking point for journalists after the Prada show for spring-summer 2016, was the triumphant return to the podium of Gemma Ward: after 6 years of silence, the former Prada muse opened again the show. The very same collection turned out to be surprisingly understated and calm: straight coats, turtlenecks tops with a high neck and sun skirts with contrast stitch in black and white and rough edges, from where can be seen through pieces of other material. Miuccia Prada has confirmed the fashion for Patchwork, presenting coats made of pieces of different fabrics, and returned sandals on a wooden platform in the style of Dutch national footwear, she invented sometime ago. And of course, socks – for Prada this is almost a tradition.
Prada, Spring-Summer 2016
This fall, the Barbie doll has got an official Instagram account especially for the duration of Fashion Week, and now it even appeared in human disguise on the catwalk of Moschino show for Spring-Summer 2016. Jeremy Scott again cultivates an era of mass consumption in the new collection of Moschino. In the previous season he had “at gunpoint” McDonald’s and Budweiser, and now the revived blond doll in a pink leather mini as a symbol of the ideal woman of our time, which many criticized as being unrealistic. “I just loved Barbie as a child, and how to not adore her, she’s just perfect!”, enthusiastically commented Scott. Barbie in a tracksuit, rollerblading Barbie, Barbie in denim shorts, and even Barbie in a gold superheroine suit. All this must be better seen once, and as it is sung in the famous song: Come on Barbie, let’s go party!
Moschino, Spring-Summer 2016
The new Dsquared² collection is a fashionable user manual entitled “What to wear with a crop top.” Dean and Dan Keytenov had not less than 20 options, one funnier than the other: in the beginning it was parachutes pants and flippy skirts with circus prints, then a series of clothes with sequins, but not for the disco – sweatshirts, fleece jackets and wide pants and closer to the final, basic tops found a even more luxury company – gold jackets with basques, the royal satin coat and high sandals in leather mesh with rivets – without a doubt the most sexy shoes for the spring-summer 2016 season from what we have seen so far.
Dsquared2, Spring-Summer 2016
Kate Moss and Charlotte Casiraghi savored the presentation from the first row: the girls with absolutely different styles but both are the muses of the Gucci house. Frida Giannini does not stick to one single style tendency and the spring-summer 2016 show proves that. Kate Moss can be easily imagined in a multicolored short fur coat, leather dresses with incused lace patterns and suede tops with deep neckline, while Charlotte can be imagined in reserved coats in the style of the 60’s, sun-dresses with pictural prints in Japanese style and wide jeans. Many designers applied the cowboy style in the spring-summer 2016 season but the Gucci version, even not feminine enough, turned to be the most glamorous – leather and suede clothes by Giannini are unique.
Gucci, Spring-Summer 2016
Romance and femininity – the axiom from which Alberta Ferretti never gets tired. Her collections have no annoying eye colors and styles that distort the proportions of the figure, but there is always some kind of airy lightness, as in the paintings of the Pre-Raphaelites, when her character is presented to the audience as if being a divine or even its ephemeral illusion. Ferretti’s romantic fantasy of the spring-summer 2016 season found a very real source of inspiration – the cowboy style with his trademark brown suede, denim and fringe. Ferretti’s own Pocahontas turned to be very romantic kind of dresses in the style of boho chic – lacy sun-dresses, perforated vests with fringe, transparent tops with floral appliqués and Greek sandals with laces.
Alberta Ferretti, Spring-Summer 2016
Max Mara last year’s spring-summer 2015 collection idea, i.e. to make the whole image in one color from head to toe, this season acquired a new meaning: deep bright shades were replaced by prints in the style of the 70’s. The same naive drawing decorated every detail – from panama and lining up on the top till the outer clothing and footwear – high boots come from all the same hippie era.
Max Mara, Spring-Summer 2016
The new Fendi collection is quite different from all previous ones. To guess the authorship without signature is possible only with the help of shoes – these have the typical brand design of straps with straight lines and geometric shapes. The rest, as it turned out, are a lot of surprises. Firstly, these are denim trousers and trouser-suit with caftan-tops. Secondly, feathers that adorned the final series of outfits. Thirdly, heartwarming prints with orchids on dresses, which, as instituted in Fendi, have different geometric cuts and line items – such as rectangular cuts, perforation and even “the shredder effect” on the fabric. Karl Lagerfield called this collection the union of fashion and architecture – an old Fendi idea masterfully brought to life.