Season trend : the pleat

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The pleat is back again! This season we are choosing challenging combinations, irregular sizes and unusual textures. 

Podium

Pleat

Dries Van Noten; Christian Dior; Proenza Schouler; Givenchy

The pleated skirt is back again but not that one we used to wear at school, but the real one, adult, mostly below the knee. On Spring-Summer season catwalks pleated skirts were worn as usual, gathered”in harmonica style” but only on one side, and looked perfectly in all options: from metallic lame and organza to silk and leather. Designers were inspired by ancient myths, school years and retro motifs.

A little history

Pleat2 trend

The model Twiggy (on the right) in Roger Violett shooting (France, 1966.); Sophia Loren at the Cannes Film Festival, (Cannes, France, 1954)

Pleated skirts were very popular in the 20’s and 50’s. Many girls of high society and movie stars preferred this kind of soft drapery. Not surprisingly that actress and singers of that time are still considered models of fine taste and femininity. The pleat fashion was back also in the 70’s and 80’s, with their free, rebellious nature and devotion for the bohemian chic.

Pleat3

Model Anne Gunning, Bettina Graziani and Sophie Malgat in the check room for a fashion magazine shooting (Paris, 1951)

Practice

The important thing is that it should not be a monochromatic skirt with a leather belt on the waist. The more variate and original, the better. The most fashionable creases this season are medium length, very accurate and sharp. Don’t forget about microscopic gaufre and careless “battered” chiffon.

Skirts

Maison Martin Margiela; Pepen

Skirts Season

Zara; Reserved

 

Skirts

J. Crew; Seventy

 

Skirts

J.W. Anderson; Haider Ackermann