New York Fashion Week: best shows. Part 3
Final review from New York Fashion Week. Ahead are London, Milan and Paris!
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Responsible for Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring-Summer 2016 collection, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, did not upset the designer Marc Jacobs sitting in the front row and obviously enjoying the fashion show. The theme of the collection was the British rave culture, to which Kathy and Luella ascribe fans Marc by Marc Jacobs via extravagant fashion looks. One thing is for sure: with these girls in the lead, the brand Marc by Marc Jacobs will never become boring.
Marc by Marc Jacobs, Spring-Summer 2016
MM6 Maison Martin Margiela
The scheme based on which the French fashion house Maison Martin Margiela creates its works, can be described as follows: Japanese art of cutting mixed with modern European materials. Of the latter, in this MM6 Maison Martin Margiela collection, ahead come denim and coffee suede, as symbols of the cowboy style. Cowboys “meet” with samurai and clothes are taking the shape of Japanese national costume. The footwear from MM6 Maison Martin Margiela collection also “look” to the East – wide platform sandals with leather laces, resembling geta – sandals of Japanese geisha.
Maison Martin Margiela, Spring-Summer 2016
What elements do not only inspire designers: for example, Kate and Laura Mallivi together with their Rodarte collection for Spring-Summer 2016, are entering the underwater world. The catwalk is covered with glass and on the glittering surface models are walking as revived mermaids in fabulous dresses made of mesh and sequins that imitate the sun’s rays on the water, with applications in the form of algae. The tops are prosaic as ever – these are nylon jackets with pockets resembling fisherman pockets, but evening dresses are poetic and light, like not made by human hands, but by nature.
Rodarte, Spring-Summer 2016
Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen confidently stick to their line, reinterpreting in their collection the meaning of the word “elegance”. From the point of view of the sisters, this notion is not glamorous and completely devoid the sexual connotation. Without exception, all the images in The Row show, Spring-Summer 2016, are strict and restrained, prevails A-silhouettes that hides the figure, raw fabrics and natural colors: ecru, sand, dark blue, ocher and terracotta. In order to “process” this collection, you need to have an ample dose of skepticism and self-esteem, so as to not withstand the appeals from fashion magazines “to lengthen the legs” and “to narrow the waist”, but just wear the clothes that you like.
The Row, Spring-Summer 2016
Rag & Bone
The Rag & Bone designers, David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, have an utilitarian approach to the production of clothing, which they demonstrate in each collection. Any Rag & Bone clothing is designed for the city, for life right here and right now. For the new season, this talented duo has prepared a realistic and practical collection with a military touch. It includes anoraks-jackets and broad-shouldered men’s jackets, transformed from outerwear into dresses, loose cut tunics in natural colors from beige to khaki and comfortable shoes designed for long trips – sandals and sneakers on a small platform.
Rag & Bone, Spring-Summer 2016
The subject of Vera Wang collection for Spring-Summer 2016 is twisted around the same garment – men’s trouser suit in classic black. It is her starting point based on which are created jacket-dresses with ruffles, tops with Basques, little black dresses and belted vests. The final flourish from Vera Wang, who is known mostly for her luxury wedding dresses, is the final series of evening waist-dresses made of transparent organza with eclectic patterns in polka dots and flowers.
The recognizable features of almost any Proenza Schouler collection are fabrics with complex weave and cuts on the Patchwork principle. The Proenza Schouler designers, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough – are innovators in what relates primarily to the texture, so their creations are worth admiring from a short distance. Dresses from finest leather laces with long fringe, replacing the skirt, transparent tops and polo-shirts made in the art of macramé, will certainly be replicated by all fashion magazines in the coming season, while leather jackets and leather tennis dresses will definitively be sold out long before the start of sales.
Proenza Schouler, Spring-Summer 2016
This Michael Kors collection for Spring-Summer 2016 would be correct to assign the status of a basic wardrobe or even adopt it as an official uniform at a college or institute. Having gained a reputation as a designer who knows what kind of clothes women like, Michael Kors once again takes as a base most successful styles suitable for the figure, add a note of retro and obtains 52 feminine looks available 24 hours a week. The designer adopts fashion trends such as gingham plaid and short tops – they’re everywhere on this Fashion Week catwalks – but still he tends to wear her character without reference to fleeting fashion trends. Accentuated waist, skirts in Brigitte Bardot style, men’s severe blue shirts and safari dresses will be relevant for at least another few seasons and Kors focuses on them mainly
Michael Kors, Spring-Summer 2016
The symbol of the American fashion industry, the designer Ralph Lauren, allows herself to play with clichés, opening the show with military style pant and satin evening top. Many looks in Ralph Lauren collection for Spring-Summer 2016 leave a mixed impression, such a as shiny tracksuits, nylon “workers” overalls or final safari dress, which suddenly turns into an evening dress with a skirt as a parachute. Ralph Lauren is far away from the real life of a modern woman and unlike his colleagues, he does not intend to create “mundane” outfits, but he is capable to skillfully play on contrasts, combining utilitarian – with elegance, khaki – with neon shades, safari style – with the dress code of a luxurious party in Hamptons.
Ralph Lauren, Spring-Summer 2016
Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein Collection for Spring-Summer 2016 can be better described with the word “sleek”- polished, glamorous, shining. This time, each Calvin Klein image looks as follows: flowing silhouette lines, emphasizing the waist, coming out as a flower bud in the lower part of the outfit. The creative director of Calvin Klein Collection, Francisco Costa, has confirmed that next season we will still wear pants with dresses (provided that they have a length of 6/8 and are minimalist and short on the verge of dresses and tops) and the gauzy fabric will finally become a seductive replacement of the translucent lace.
Calvin Klein Collection, Spring-Summer 2016
By tradition, the Marc Jacobs show actually ended the New York Fashion Week, and as always, he was one of the final chords that turned loud and defiant. The focus of designer is on the military style and on the concept of garments such as uniforms – practical and unpretentious, the designer even decided to refuse make-up artist works and sent his models on the catwalk absolutely with no make-up, wearing only wigs a la Mireille Mathieu. A big part of the collection is a single set of jackets, skirts, dresses and jumpsuits with huge pockets that are able to replace the bag (though the last is also present – made of leather and in the form of satin backpacks). But Mark was not Mark, if he did not released on the catwalk his “inner child”: by the end of the show, the military mood was represented only by khaki color and on the catwalk appeared dresses from the Twiggy wardrobe in the spirit of Jacobs’ beloved 60’s in the form of large polka dots, shiny buttons and perforations.