New York Fashion Week: best shows. Part 1
Best shows from New York Fashion Week, Spring-Summer season 2016.
BCBG Max Azria
By a good tradition, in the first shows of New York Fashion Week, BCBG deftly manages to catch the fashion trends before others: for example, in the last fall-winter season, they have “guessed” the trend on cape-coats and colorful fur, in winter 2012, they have predicted a bright color combinations of color-blocking, and in the fall of 2009 – colorful digital-prints. Judging by BCBG Max Azria forecasts for spring and summer 2016, we can see that soft pastel shades are back again: creme brulee, light blue, cherry and ecru in the form of flowing silk dresses, jackets with belt-bows and quilted kimono-jackets.
BCBG Max Azria, Spring-Summer 2016
The main theme of Prabal Gurung collection became the tropical motifs. Prabal Gurung sees the exotics of faraway places much more dramatic than many of his colleagues, working with identical motifs. The colors are reflecting the two “eras” of the day – the dawn with its transparent rays and dark blue nights, pictures are like Impressionist paintings with lots of colorful brushstrokes, and the cut is complex and unpredictable – a dress embroidered with feathers and floral appliqués suddenly have a sports “aircraft” belt while the black classic pantsuit has inserts in Patchwork style and cuts on the zippers.
Prabal Gurung, Spring-Summer 2016
Compared to the previous Jason Wu creations, the spring-summer 2016 collection turned calm and restrained. “The one word I keep thinking is beauty”, says Wu and also adds that his “invisible muse” was Charlotte Rampling. Indeed, it is easy to imagine the British actress in any of the outfits from Jason Wu collection – whether it’s a suit with blurred prints and emphasized waist or silk shirt-dress, as showed by the model Karlie Kloss. Jason Wu final flourish were dresses embroidered with glass beachanese which appear under the curtain of the show. Sparkling material like shell, and high cut on the thigh it is really a seductive version of a cocktail dress.
Jason Wu, Spring-Summer 2016
Several consecutive seasons, the creative director of Lacoste, the Portuguese Felipe Oliveira Baptista shows what sportswear is still capable to do. In the spring-summer 2016 he experimented with team shirts with numbers, turning them into a kind of an evening dress with a long train while the yachtsman jackets into white elegant swallow-tailed coats. Felipe’s men’s clothing, as well as women’s, repeats the same original cut with the “tail.” The present Lacoste collection is another proof that in the coming season, the sport-chic will be actual more than ever.
Lacoste, Spring-Summer 2016
Alexander Wang, being the most promising and “notorious” designer of our time (the joint collection with H&M confirms it), can afford everything! For example, to create a whole collection of clothing, footwear and accessories based on a single sports item – sneakers. Perforation, weaving and lace, which we are used to see on training shoes, Wang combines with mini-dresses and crop tops. Bags and clutches in Alexander Wang collection “take” the form of sneakers up to the sole while the shoes gets velcro fasteners instead of usual thin straps and a meshy toe.
Alexander Wang, Spring-Summer 2016
DKNY, the young and freedom-loving spirit brand, has never abounded in so many colors and patterns in the same collection: on the spring-summer 2015 catwalk, the pastel mint shade meets with bright orange while the stripe – with holographic prints and ethnic patterns. In spite of everything, the main DKNY theme remains sports, therefore, the main characters are again bomber jackets, short mesh tops and fluorescent coats similar to the ones worn by Rihanna and Rita Ora with heeled shoes and red lipstick. Donna Karan personally dedicated this collection to New York and its never sleeping streets.
DKNY, Spring-Summer 2016
This time, inspired by the movie “Rosemary’s Baby” with Mia Farrow, the designer Joseph Altuzarra creates images that are best characterized by two epithets – intelligent and seductive. The working dress code will never allow wearing this, but in these clothes you can go at the office, for example, to flirt with a colleague. Shirt-dresses and skirts with high plackets in innocent plaid-Gingham pattern fit perfectly for such goals. But kidding aside, it is the “detailed exposure” Altuzarra is successful in: none of the outfits look vulgar, although a rather naked body can be seen through the mesh leather of waistcoat or through the unbuttoned or buttoned shirt.
Altuzarra, Spring-Summer 2016
Very soon, Victoria Beckham will open her first flagship store and is clearly working hard to “polish” her design concept. Each of her collection is more like a set of fashion axioms – practical clothes that in the near future will definitively not go out of fashion. In spring-summer 2015 collections can be seen pant suits, overalls with pockets and coats–jackets. We paid a particular attention to the footwear, because this year, Victoria Beckham debuts with her shoe collection, Victoria Beckham. Surprisingly, we have not seen the well known elegant stiletto heels – these are replaced by velvet sandals with wide heel and platform and cowboy boots with sharp toe.
Сильная сторона коллекции Derek Lam, весна-лето 2016 – это цветовая гамма. Пастельный лиловый, бирюзовый, винный и шоколадный оттенки показывают свой «мягкий характер» за счет использования бархатной замши и гладкой глянцевой кожи. В качестве отправной точки дизайнер выбирает эпоху 70-х и заимствует оттуда технику пэтчворк для пальто, расклешенные фасоны для брюк и обувь на платформе. Все без исключения наряды вытягивают силуэт и на фоне всеобщего увлечения объемными овальными формами, эта коллекция Derek Lam кажется одной из самых реалистичных и практичных.
Derek Lam, Spring-Summer 2016
While his colleagues experiment with sportswear and urban-style, Thakoon Panichgul takes us away from the reality of the city, in the exotic atmosphere of the Caribbean islands. This Thakoon Spring-Summer 2015 collection is a little trip, as the designer himself describes it. Starting from clothes interpretations, like silk polka dots pajamas, which turn into a top, then a coat, then a dress, Panichgul develops his imagination in monochrome and colorful tropical illustrations and then demonstrates his skill in details emerizing. For example, the role of fringe on dresses and tops are plaid by colorful threads, resembling underwater plants or corals.